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Post by elmer on Feb 10, 2019 23:26:50 GMT
I was just chasing this stuff down, and had a lot trouble finding it (and not sure whether it's the right versions). As you found, the code that krikzz is willing to share is available on the "Downloads" page on his website. That's "bios.s", the low-level driver code for accessing the TED2, and "edio.c", the low-level driver code (plus a few more functions) for accessing the TED1. And yep, that's "edio.c" ... a C source file. From what I can see, his TED OS is mostly written in C, with a small core of functions converted to assembly for the TED2. My TED2 header file was in a stickied thread on PCEFX, but NW un-stickied the thread when he got pissed at me, and so it is probably a few pages back if you go to look for it now. The header file is for CC65, since that is what I believe krikzz was using for his C code. I'm pretty sure that he is using the Petit FATfs for his FAT32 handling code, which is ANSI C, and will compile with CC65, but totally fail on HuC. I managed to get both "Petit FATfs" and the full-sized "FATfs" code compiling for the PC Engine with CC65. The one thing that CC65 really doesn't handle is the PCE's banking, it assumes that there is a single block of memory. Krikzz's OS is written as a 32KB block of code that runs at $8000-$FFFF. Have I misuderstood, or have you not yet updated your programming sticky with this information ? Nobody here has been interested in the TED2 before, so I've just not bothered posting the latest header yet, which is for PCEAS, not CC65.
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Post by elmer on Feb 11, 2019 7:33:11 GMT
I've just added my latest TED2 header/documentation to the 1st post in my stickied thread.
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Post by dshadoff on Feb 12, 2019 0:22:16 GMT
OK, I'm looking into adding a USB port to my Everdrive too. I can source the FTDI FT245RL chip, but I can't find info on the USB connector, since krikzz's link to an ebay auction has been removed.
Are either of you able to provide some more information on what type should work ?
Dave
P.S. Thanks for updating your stickied page, Elmer !
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Post by elmer on Feb 12, 2019 0:59:50 GMT
Are either of you able to provide some more information on what type should work ? It's a mini-usb connector (not a micro-usb connector). Sorry for the blurry image, but here it is ...
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Post by dshadoff on Feb 12, 2019 1:20:57 GMT
OK, that looks like this one - physical measurements are about as close as I can measure (no micrometers here...). Amphenol 10033526-N3212LF
Seems easy enough to handle, but the drawing seems to imply that soldering the leads could be a bit of a pain, as they are barely accessible at the edge. I should have thought a little more seriously about getting a nice temperature-controlled soldering station when I was in Japan last summer. They had lots of nice stuff... here, it's all mail-order.
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Post by spenoza on Feb 12, 2019 15:15:40 GMT
Is there any reason you couldn't use a micro-USB connector instead?
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Post by dshadoff on Feb 12, 2019 15:56:20 GMT
Well, there are two important considerations:
1) Electrical pin mappings - I'm not 100% sure that micro-usb would have the pin sequence (and even min-USB could be rightside-up, or upside-down). If you get the pin sequence wrong, you can damage both the Everdriv e and your computer's USB.
2) Physical dimensions - the pin spacing, the anchor holes, and the anchor pads are all meant for a specific type of connector. If you get the wrong type, it won't mount properly and there will be stresses on the wrong areas (and maybe it won't even be able to mount connect at all).
Also, I can confirm that putting a mini-usb on the card will be about 1.5mm taller than the shell expects it to be at that point. But that probably isn't such a big deal; a micro-usb would fit more nicely. But they seems to have many variations of those connectors, whereas mini-USB seems to be pretty standard.
Also, I have question - the TED will NOT emulate an arcade card, right ? It seems like something which should be easily within the capabilities of the hardware - the bank $44 load approach using the SF2 mapper is nearly identical to Arcade Card use... but there are several registers which would have to be implemented at the FPGA level which would be a big pain.
OK, more than one question: I noticed that my card has 64Mb (8MB) of RAM on it. Do all TED 2.x's have this much ? Does anybody know whether it's all addressable (the original thought was that only 4MB was available) ?
Dave
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Post by dshadoff on Feb 13, 2019 18:53:05 GMT
OK, I ordered the chip and the USB connector from Mouser, and they arrived today. But now I'm getting cold feet about the FTDI chip... that's going to need more soldering skill than I think I have, and the "humidity controlled environment" for oven processing is also scaring me a bit.
Also, I recall hearing that there were some 'tricks' to soldering SMD devices - like a spot of glue on the bottom to ensure positioning stays good. Any suggestions on the type of glue ?
I also don't trust using my toaster oven as a reflow device...
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TailChao
Gun-headed
I Must Eat Muffin Gear.
Posts: 68
Fave PCE Game Overall: Bonk's Adventure
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Post by TailChao on Feb 13, 2019 20:24:40 GMT
Also, I recall hearing that there were some 'tricks' to soldering SMD devices - like a spot of glue on the bottom to ensure positioning stays good. Any suggestions on the type of glue ? I also don't trust using my toaster oven as a reflow device... The trick is to not treat it as a delicate operation, especially if you have leaded solder and a wick available. Put a light amount of flux on the pads, then align the chip as best you can. I usually solder down one or two pins in each corner at this point to at least anchor the chip. You can then just glob the solder on, even if it's bridging the pins - the goal is to cover all of them to make a secure contact. Once that's done you can wick off the excess and clean off the flux.
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Post by theoldman on Feb 13, 2019 22:14:57 GMT
+1 on the advice. Tack the corners, one at a time to align things, then solder the rest down. Wick off what you can, then check with a meter. If there's any shorts, flux them and wick them off again. A craft knife will help if there's any shorts you can't get rid of; run it between the pins and it should cut the solder so there's no short. The worst part is all the checking
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Post by dshadoff on Mar 4, 2019 4:46:25 GMT
OK, just in case I botch it, I've ordered another Everdrive without a cover. Under the category of "making people buy stuff they really don't actually need", I also bought one of these to help me see what I'm doing... ja.aliexpress.com/item/G600-600X-USB-4-3-LED/32908685178.htmlThe stuff should take some time to arrive, but I'll get this upgraded sooner or later. Dave
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Post by dshadoff on Apr 12, 2019 3:22:47 GMT
Follow-up:
I received my second Everdrive yesterday, and I soldered the stuff in and got it working - but not without a lot of effort. I am not a fan of the footprints of the parts - even the USB connector has the leads underneath rather than exposed to the side.
I could not have been successful without a microscope: somehow, while I was wicking off some excess solder, one tiny piece of a strand of the copper wick somehow got underneath and between two pins of the chip, and bridged two contacts. While I could detect the short with a multimeter, I couldn't understand why it was shorted until I used the microscope and angled the board sideways, and saw the strand. Of course, the pins are so close together that nothing can get in behind it; x-acto knife, etc.
To fix this, I added solder then wicked it away again; if you've ever seen time-lapse photography of reflow, you have probably seen components shift towards their pads because of the surface tension of the liquid solder. That's how adding solder fixed the short here.
If anybody is planning to do this same operation and - like me - doesn't have a reflow oven, you'll need some tools and I think you'd probably be better off with that "newfangled" reflow solder that they refer to as "solder paste", and a precision syringe applicator (or a stencil), rather than the old-fashioned solder on a spool that I used.
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Post by elmer on Apr 12, 2019 16:58:54 GMT
Major congratulations on getting that done! It sounds like a real PITA, and far beyond my limited soldering skills ... I'm definitely going to have to find someone else willing to add those components to my spare TED2. I *seem* to remember KRIKzz saying that he might be willing to do a large-special-order quantity of TED2s with the USB for a customer/reseller, but that it wasn't worth his time keeping them stocked because there was no demand.
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Post by gredler on Apr 12, 2019 18:22:57 GMT
Here's a photo of my TED2, I ordered it with USB naively thinking it would allow me to push builds of Catastrophy faster (kinda like running a build from a pc to ps4 using visual studio) Is this what you're talking about?
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Post by dshadoff on Apr 12, 2019 19:58:05 GMT
Major congratulations on getting that done! It sounds like a real PITA, and far beyond my limited soldering skills ... I'm definitely going to have to find someone else willing to add those components to my spare TED2. I *seem* to remember KRIKzz saying that he might be willing to do a large-special-order quantity of TED2s with the USB for a customer/reseller, but that it wasn't worth his time keeping them stocked because there was no demand. If you ever organize such a purchase, I’m in for one. Electrically, mine is fine, but I’m less confident about the mechanics of those connections holding up over time.
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