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Post by SignOfZeta on Oct 5, 2019 1:52:24 GMT
You’ll know you dumped your own ROM when it doesn’t work, and the satisfaction of having achieved that is priceless.
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Post by dshadoff on Oct 5, 2019 2:43:30 GMT
You’ll know you dumped your own ROM when it doesn’t work, and the satisfaction of having achieved that is priceless. I have the opposite experience. Many ROMs I didn't personally dump have failed.
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Post by SignOfZeta on Oct 5, 2019 3:00:03 GMT
If you get a complete known good ROM set I promise you all of them will play. This work you’re doing has been done before. I’m not telling you to not do it, I’m just saying that it’s been done and been done to as near perfect as you’d ever need so it’s very pointless unless you love doing it. Even then, the easiest way to know for sure that your ROM isn’t the exact same one I have here is if yours doesn’t work because mine does and the best possible outcome of this is that you have the exact same ROM as the one everyone else has that was correctly redumped in 2007 if not 1997. I do you hope you find some rare gem though, of course. It’s not totally impossible. Maybe a new version of Shada with a typo fixed in it or something.
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Post by dshadoff on Oct 5, 2019 4:36:24 GMT
I agree that it has been done; however, if you select any given ROM or ROM set from the net, there is a reasonable chance that one or more will be bad rips - even now (because the old bad ones are still being served, and "known good" is subjective and has been known to be wrong in the past).
"As near perfect as you'd ever need" implies that while playing, one would not subjectively experience an issue even if a bad dump were used. Well, I actually experienced this on more than one occasion. And I actually experienced an issue due to bit rot on an actual cartridge - this was the event which prompted me to re-rip and perform a multi-way comparison for CRC matches.
And that's just me - I'm not as much of a game player as many people on this board.
As for HuCards, the best way is to use no-header ROMs and a CRC check. That way, positive identification can be gained. But you'll need to be clear about what the CRC's are.
For CDROMs, the situation is much more complicated, as there are a plethora of ways of how to rip these. And many internet rips are actually rips of reconstructed images made from other rips. Utterly bogus, without even considering the multiple masters/pressings of many CDROM games. In time, this will probably improve though (ir will probably take years and new file formats though).
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Post by ClodBuster on Oct 6, 2019 18:18:19 GMT
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Gex
Gun-headed
Facebook Name: Ryley Rolls
Posts: 58
Currently Playing: Dragon Slayer 2
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Post by Gex on Oct 9, 2019 16:41:44 GMT
It was a custom game card made for a Jamma board with a PC Engine wired in. It was a PC Genjin 3 rom, but people say that the roms are supposed to be hacked to supported limited time per credit. I'm still sad I didn't buy that from on on eBay
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Post by ClodBuster on Nov 11, 2019 21:00:06 GMT
Skaman's PCB has arrived, and I just went for ordering the Tototek Hucard slot. Once they've been assembled, I'll let you guys know if and how they work with the Retrode.
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Post by ClodBuster on Nov 24, 2019 18:44:30 GMT
The Tototek Hucard slot arrived last week and I spent some quality time mating it with skaman's PCB. Top Underside. The mounting pins are in a different alignment than the original HuCard slot. No suprise here, since the Tototek slot is meant for use with their own dumper PCB. Side view at the mounting pins. These do not carry any electrical connection to the HuCard interface pins. I had to drill skaman's PCB to clear the Tototek slot mounting pins. Then I scraped the solder mask from the surface surrounding the pin holes to uncover the copper underneath. I mounted the slot onto the PCB and distributed a generous amount of solder to the mounting pins. Since the copper forms a large heat sink connected to the ground pin, having a soldering station with high thermal capacity and a wide tip in the handpiece helps a lot. Then I soldered the rest of the interface pins and tested them against the PCB's pins usind a DMM. Blazing Lazers HuCard test-fit And there you have it, the HuCard plugin adaptor for the Retrode. Merrily dumping your HuCard ROMs to any device you'd like to by USB mass storage protocol. Make sure to put the whole adapter thing with the HuCard slot facing to the Retrode's backside in the SNES slot, and set the voltage switch to 5 V. Also, upgrade the Retrode's firmware to at least v0.26a - I didn't do it yet, d'oh! Too bad FLIP refuses to do the upgrade on Windows 10, so I need to make up for it tomorrow at a Windows 7 machine at work. Speaking of SNES slot, skaman's PCB is designed to use SNES cartridge shells. Modifying a stock SNES cart shell to hold the plugin adaptor is on my to do list as well.
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Post by ClodBuster on Nov 26, 2019 20:21:29 GMT
I did the upgrade to Retrode firmware v0.26a beta today, and guess what: It werkz! The Retrode also recognizes the Low Cost Flash HuCard by gamingenterprisesinc.com: www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/Flash_HuCard/I also tried the Tennokoe Bank card. The ROM can be dumped, though there's no access to its SRAM. Since there's SRAM and EEP read/write support for other cartridge types with the Retrode, there's some hope that this feature for HuCards could be added in a future firmware upgrade.
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Post by ccovell on Nov 27, 2019 7:44:41 GMT
Here's the Tennokoe Bank SRAM reading method, by the way:
Write #$68 to $0000 in bank $68. Then write 0 to $0000 in bank $78, then write #$73 to $0000 in bank $78 three times. You can now map in bank $40 into, eg. $8000 and read up to $9FFF.
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Post by ClodBuster on Nov 27, 2019 14:42:57 GMT
Thanks Chris! I have forwarded your post as a quote to the Retrode forums.
Dshadoff, is there any HuCard you'd like to get dumped by me?
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Post by dshadoff on Nov 27, 2019 17:50:05 GMT
Dshadoff, is there any HuCard you'd like to get dumped by me? Thanks, but I just got the last one I needed. I reripped everything I had so I could get a verification against an independent rip. I then purchased several of the failures... and got a second failure only on Beball. I just got back from Japan where I bought three of them just to be sure. Wouldn’t you know it ? My original rip was fine, and the internet copy I compared it against had a flaw. Verified times three now. Dave
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Post by ClodBuster on Nov 27, 2019 20:51:09 GMT
So which game was it that had a flaw?
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Post by dshadoff on Nov 27, 2019 22:59:20 GMT
So which game was it that had a flaw? I had reripped all of the HuCards and found something like: 15-20 didn’t match the first internet rip I found Of these, I resolved about half by finding other rips online which did match. This is the reason I don’t trust internet rips... Of those 7 or so, I purchased new copies of all of them, and found all of the second copies had different rips from their corresponding first copies... and all but one of these second copies now matched an internet rip. The last one was Beball. The second copy didn’t match the first copy or the internet rip. But all three of the new copies (from my Japan trip two weeks ago) matched my original copy, showing me that both the internet rip and the second copy were not good. So, all in all, somewhere between 1-2% of my HuCards had some bitrot.
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Post by ClodBuster on Nov 28, 2019 18:28:09 GMT
Thanks for your reply, I've just sent you a PM regarding Be Ball.
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